Oil Properties

This is meant to serve as a "cheat sheet" to help you figure out which oils you would like to use for making cold process soap. Try to stick with the recommended amounts for a workable, quality formula, and remember-- always run your recipe through a soap calculator! 

Here are some details on the various types of soaping oils and their recommended usage rates:

Apricot Kernel Oil – Shelf life 1 year

High in linoleic/oleic acids and lightweight. Well absorbed into skin and conditioning. Produces small bubbles. For soap recipes, it is best used at 15% or less. Otherwise, the bars can be too soft and will not last as long in the shower.

Argan Oil – Shelf Life 2 years

Packed with vitamin E and A, this lovely oil is very moisturizing and has a nice, silky feel. Recommended use in soap is 10% or less.

Avocado Oil – Shelf life 1 year

Produces a softer bar of soap. For cold process, the recommended use is 20% or less. Loaded with vitamins A, B, D, and E. It is excellent for lotions and other body products, because it has higher levels of fatty acids. It is also very conditioning.

Avocado Butter – Shelf life 3 years

A hydrogenated oil from the fruit of the avocado tree. It is solid at room temperature. It is a wonderful skin moisturizer with a creamy feel. Recommended use is 12% for cold process soap. Also a great addition to body butters and lotions.

Babassu Oil – Shelf life 2 years

This is a wonderful substitute for palm oil. It comes from a palm tree native to Brazil. Cleanses and firms the bar the same as regular palm oil, and can be used up to 33%. Babasu feels lighter and absorbs faster on the skin.

Beeswax (White or Yellow) – Shelf life 3 years

Both yellow and white bees wax are refined. But white is naturally bleached air, moisture and sunlight, while yellow is not. It is used in cold process soap to harden the bars. Recommended us in cold process soap is 8% or less. You will need to keep your lye and oils at a higher temperature to ensure that the bees wax stays melted (150 degrees F or higher). The batter will reach trace faster than normal. Your soap may also gel, due to the heat.

Borage Oil – Shelf life 3 years

A very rich source of essential fatty acids, like gammalinolenic acid, which is great for mature or sensitive skin. Recommended use in cold process soap is 33% or less.

Canola Oil – Shelf life 1 year
A very affordable oil for soaping and an excellent substitute for olive oil. It produces a creamy lather and a balanced bar. Recommended use in cold process is 15%-40%.

Carrot Seed Oil – Shelf life 2 years
This oil absorbs quickly and is lightweight. Gentle on sensitive skin. Recommended use in cold process soap is 5-15%.

Castor Oil – Shelf life 2 years

A very thick oil from the castor bean plant. It helps to create wonderful lather and is very moisturizing. It does tend to make soap soft and sticky when used in too large of amounts. So the recommended use is 2-5%.

Chia Seed Oil – Shelf life 1 year

Chia seed oil is rich with fatty acids, vitamins and protein. It is excellent for conditioner, body butters and soap. Also moisturizing and lightweight. Recommended usage in cold process soap is 10%.

Cocoa Butter (pastilles/organic/wafers/deodorized) – Shelf life 2 years

Solid/hard at room temperature, this butter has a melting point of 93 to 100 degrees F. Be careful not to over-heat, or it can become instable. Cocoa butter adds moisturizing nourishment to cold process soap. Recommended use is 15% or less, but 10% is best for cold process soaps. Otherwise, your soap can become too hard and crack. Even a small amount makes an excellent bar hardener. It is best to temper cocoa butter before using it in soap. To do this, melt it very slowly over a low heat to 100 degrees F, over a double boiler, or in a crockpot. Stir well to break up the crystallization. ** Do not use a microwave; this will not help to break up the crystallization. 

Coconut Oil – Shelf life 18 months

This oil is often found in melting points of 76 and 92 degrees F. But there are other varieties. It is one of the most commonly used oils in cosmetics and soap. It is very cleansing and can be used up to 33%. But because it can be harsh and drying on the skin in soap, the best usage for those with sensitive skin is around 10 to 15%.

Coffee Butter – Shelf life 2 years

A luxurious butter, that is wonderful in soap and lotions. It does contain a tiny amount of caffeine (around 1%). Very creamy with a coffee scent. Recommended usage for cold process soap is 6%.

Coffee Seed Oil – Shelf life 2 years

This oil is taken directly from roasted coffee beans and is thick and wonderfully opulent. Great for skincare products, bath bombs, and soap. Best used at 10% or less in cold process soap.

Cucumber Seed Oil – Shelf life 2 years

This oil is lightweight and quick to absorb. A great, moisturizing choice for mature or dry skin. It can be used in cold process soap at 15% or less.

Emu Oil – Shelf life 1 year

A skin hydrating oil of medium-weight. Recommended use in cold process soap is 13%.

Evening Primrose Oil – Shelf life 1 year

Another fast-absorbing, lightweight oil. Can be used in soap up to 15%.

Flaxseed Oil – Shelf life 6 months

Packed with fatty acids and lightweight, this oil is fabulous in lotions, body butters and balms. It can be used up to 5% in cold process soap.

Fractionated Coconut Oil – Shelf life 3 years

Containing only the medium triglycerides, this oil stays liquid. It makes softer bars, as it is more lightweight than solid coconut oil. However, it is less cleansing and lathering. Recommended usage for cold process soap is 33%.

Grapeseed Oil – Shelf life 1 year

Higher in lineoleic acid and antioxidants, this oil is very smoothing on the skin. It is thin and lightweight. Great for massage oil, lotions and body butters. Recommended usage for cold process soap is 15% or less.

Green Tea Seed Oil – Shelf life 2 years

High in vitamins A and B, this lightweight oil absorbs quickly and is very moisturizing. It is splendid in conditioner, lotion and soap. It can be used in cold process soap up to 6%.

Hazelnut Fixed Oil – Shelf life 3 months

If you are looking to do a complex swirl design, this oil can help! It low in fatty acids, so it slows down trace, giving you more time to work. It is conditioning on skin with small lather and is a lightweight oil. Best used at 20% or less.

Hemp Seed Oil – Shelf life 1 year

This oil makes great lather. It is an all-day moisturizer and a plentiful source of fatty acids. It can be used up to 15%.

Jojoba Oil – Shelf life 2 years

A liquid wax, rather than an oil—this product makes a more long-lasting, stable bar. But because it can hinder lathering capabilities when used in too large amounts, the recommended usage is 10% or less.

Kokum Butter – Shelf life 2 years

This lightweight, moisturizing oil absorbs fast on the skin. It is best to temper it, the same way you would cocoa butter. Recommended usage is cold process soap is 10% or less.

Kukui Nut Oil – Shelf life 2 years

A luscious oil native to Hawaii, Kukui Nut oil absorbs quickly and is lightweight. It can be used up to 20%.

Lingonberry Seed Oil – Shelf life 2 years

High in antioxidants and essential fatty acids, this lightweight oil has a velvety feel. Use at up to 15% in cold process soap.

Mango Butter – Shelf life 2 years

From the fruit kernels of the mango tree, mango butter is solid at room temperature, but melts on the skin. Temper for best results. Can be used up to 15% in soap.

Meadowfoam Oil – Shelf life 1 year

Similar in feel to Jojoba oil, Meadowfoam oil is conditioning and moisturizing. It produces a satiny lather and is best used at 10-20%.

Moringa Seed Oil – Shelf life 2 years

Non-greasy and lightweight, Moringa seed oil is very moisturizing to the skin. Use at 15% or less.

Neem Oil – Shelf life 2 years

This oil has been a favorite in skincare for centuries. It has a musky/garlicky smell, but is packed with antioxidants and very moisturizing. It should be used at 3-6%. At such a small percentage, the natural smell is easily hidden.

Oat Oil – Shelf life 1 year

Another lightweight, non-greasy, all-day moisturizer. This fast-absorbing oil is loaded with vitamin E, fatty acids and antioxidants. Use at 5-15%.

Olive Oil (Pomace or Pure) – Shelf life 2 years

Olive oil is a primary ingredient in cold process soap. It produces a creamy lather and is thick and moisturizing. Pure olive oil takes longer to trace and makes softer bars, in comparison to pomace. It can be used in soap up to 100%, but most non-castile/bastille recipes do best at 30-40%.

Palm Oil – 1 year

Palm oil helps soap to harden and adds unique qualities to the bar. Paired with coconut oil, it creates great lather. It can be used up to 33% in cold process soap. Please be sure to melt it completely (until clear) and mix it well, before adding it to your recipe. This ensures that the fatty acids will be evenly distributed.

Palm Kernel Flakes – Shelf life 1 year

This comes in flake form and is a blend of soy lecithin and partially-hydrogenated palm kernel oil. Only use up to 15% in cold process soap. Any more, and it could make your bars too brittle or hard. You will need to work quickly, because it does speed up trace.

Peach Kernel Oil – Shelf life 1 year

In cold process soap, this oil gives a good, stable lather. It naturally has a pale yellow color and adds skin-loving moisture to your recipe. Use it in place of grapeseed oil or sweet almond oil. It can be used up to 25%.

Peanut Oil – Shelf life 1 year

You can use this oil as a substitute for canola or olive oil in cold process soap. Suggested use is up to 25%.

Raspberry Seed Oil – Shelf life 2 years

This lightweight oil has plenty of essential fatty acids and absorbs into he skin quickly. It also helps to smooth the skin. Suggested use for cold process soap is 5-15%.

Red Palm Oil – Shelf life 2 years

This oil can add a lovely orange color to cold process soap, and helps to harden the bars. You can use this oil up to 33%, but its best to stay at around 15%, because it can stain your skin and the mold.

Rice Bran Oil – Shelf life 2 years

This is a thick and moisturizing oil, similar to olive oil. It has plenty of antioxidants and vitamin E. You can use it up to 100%, but just like a pure olive oil soap, it will be a soft bar with small lather. For this reason, it is best used at 20% or less.

Rosehip Seed Oil – Shelf life 2 years

This hydrating oil is packed with vitamins A and C, and is great for mature or dry skin. It is non-greasy and lightweight. Suggested use for cold process soap is 10% or less.

Safflower Oil – Shelf life 1 year

This oil is very similar to sunflower or canola oil and has mild, skin-loving properties. Suggested use it 20% or less in cold process soap.

Sesame Oil – Shelf life 1 year

This oil makes a moisturizing bar of soap. It is a light golden color with lots of fatty acids and antioxidants. Do not confuse this with toasted sesame oil, which is often used in Asian cooking. Suggested use is up to 10% for cold process soap.

Shea Butter – Shelf life 2 years

It is best to temper this oil before using it. Shea butter is moisturizing and pampering to the skin. It also helps to harden the bar and can be used in cold process soap up to 15%.

Soybean Oil – Shelf life 3 months if refrigerated

If you pair soybean oil with coconut oil or palm oil, it produces a hard soap bar. It produces a stable, conditioning and creamy lather. It can be used up to 50%, but the best suggested use is up to 15%.

Sunflower Oil – Shelf life 6 months

This oil makes a very very conditioning for the skin in cold process soap. But in lotions and butters, it can be very slow to absorb and feel oily. It is rich in vitamin E and fatty acids and is a cheaper alternative to fill in a soap recipe. Keep this oil refrigerated to prolong the shelf life. It can be used at 100%, but recommended usage is 20% or less.

Sweet Almond Oil – Shelf life 1 year

Sweet almond oil is moisturizing, lightweight, and packed with fatty acids. It is a great addition to cold process soap. Suggested use is up to 20% for cold process soap.

Tamanu Oil – Shelf life 2 years

Tamanu oil is rich with fatty acids. It is a moisturizing oil that is lightweight and absorbs quickly. Recommended use is up to 5% in cold process soap.

Walnut Oil – 3 months

This oil is moisturizing and conditioning to the skin, but also packed full of antioxidants. Suggested use for cold process soap is up to 15%.

Wheat Germ Oil – Shelf life 1 year

Wheat germ oil may be heavy, but it feels feathery light and powder-like on the skin. It is also rich with vitamins A, B, D, and E. Recommended use for cold process soap is up to 10%.